Campus to Coast
A 151 Mile Scenic Michigan Adventure
A 151 Mile Scenic Michigan Adventure
CAMPUS TO COAST
A Top 25 North America Ultra Distance Paddling Race!
I have been looking forward to this 151 mile paddle since I heard about it last year. While it is designed for teams, solo paddlists are welcomed.
The race begins near my alma matter Michigan State on the Red Cedar River and finishes in Grand Haven, just before the sandy beaches of Lake Michigan. Along the way I will pass through my hometown Grand Rapids. It will give me an excuse to visit old friends and familiar sites. Unfortunately, this year’s race was cancelled because of concerns about coronavirus. But, having made it a personal goal I could not let it go.
This Grand River paddle is not all easy. The151.4 mile course includes seven portages of which six are within the first 60 miles. I am not familiar with any of them and navigating difficult waters at night alone is not a good idea. During this time of the year we have to navigate swift floodwaters, which in itself poses greater risk and danger. Also, having to battle strong headwinds as you make your way toward Lake Michigan is almost certain.
A Top 25 North America Ultra Distance Paddling Race!
I have been looking forward to this 151 mile paddle since I heard about it last year. While it is designed for teams, solo paddlists are welcomed.
The race begins near my alma matter Michigan State on the Red Cedar River and finishes in Grand Haven, just before the sandy beaches of Lake Michigan. Along the way I will pass through my hometown Grand Rapids. It will give me an excuse to visit old friends and familiar sites. Unfortunately, this year’s race was cancelled because of concerns about coronavirus. But, having made it a personal goal I could not let it go.
This Grand River paddle is not all easy. The151.4 mile course includes seven portages of which six are within the first 60 miles. I am not familiar with any of them and navigating difficult waters at night alone is not a good idea. During this time of the year we have to navigate swift floodwaters, which in itself poses greater risk and danger. Also, having to battle strong headwinds as you make your way toward Lake Michigan is almost certain.
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The race requires that you finish within 57 hours. I will remain true to that as I don’t want DNF associated with my name, even unofficially. I began training for the race since the rivers frost opened here in Minnesota. When finished, the distanced paddled will shatter my prior record of 104.3 miles paddled during a single excursion.
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To learn more about the race and route, I reach out to Kendall Uckele the Campus to Coast race director, Michigan’s DNR, and several county park managers. A special shout out to Kendall. Without his support my level of preparedness and confidence would not have been anywhere near as strong.
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It is Saturday morning and I am greeted with a thick layer of frost on my car.
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The forecast over the next several days was for temperatures ranging between the high 20s to mid 50s. Because the winds were forecasted to be strongest on the third day with gusts reaching the upper twenties, my plan was to push through and finish within two days.
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Former high school classmates Sheila and Nancy agreed to shuttle me to and from the start and end of the race. We haven’t seen each other for about 40 years. The one hour trip to Lansing allows us to catch up on memories about school, play, and travel. It seems as if school years were just yesterday, not decades long ago.
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When we arrive at Potter Zoo just after 9AM we can’t find any signs marking the boat launch. Luckily, Kruger’s Landing is on the other side of the Red Cedar River not far away. So we travel there.
After packing three days of clothing, food, and other supplies into my kayak, and of course taking the mandated photos, it was time to launch. It’s just before 10AM. I'm right on schedule and the morning temperature was a comfortable mid 30 degrees. Before I launch we say goodby with the now socially accepted elbow hug.
After packing three days of clothing, food, and other supplies into my kayak, and of course taking the mandated photos, it was time to launch. It’s just before 10AM. I'm right on schedule and the morning temperature was a comfortable mid 30 degrees. Before I launch we say goodby with the now socially accepted elbow hug.
Nancy & Sheila.
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Heading to Kruger's Landing.
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Packing the kayak.
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THE GRAND RIVER IS MICHIGAN'S LARGEST.
From Lansing to Lake Michigan it is a scenic adventure worthy of paddling. Along the way you will paddle through midsize cities and quaint riverside townships. Seven dams varying in size from disruptive jagged rocks to impassable power generating plants will challenge your spirit and body.
There are stretches where you paddle for miles without any sign of human inhabitant. The river is teaming with wildlife. I saw more beavers, otters, raccoons, squirrels, turtles, turkey, deer, ducks, geese, and swans than any other paddling adventure. It certainly helped that it was so early in the season, cold and windy, and Michigan was on lockdown because of coronavirus.
I came across two early season hackings of geese with their protective parents not far away. Baby beavers look liked oversized guinea pigs and newborn raccoons look like juvenile thieves. For some reason I find those mud covered flat shelled turtles particularly interesting to watch.
From Lansing to Lake Michigan it is a scenic adventure worthy of paddling. Along the way you will paddle through midsize cities and quaint riverside townships. Seven dams varying in size from disruptive jagged rocks to impassable power generating plants will challenge your spirit and body.
There are stretches where you paddle for miles without any sign of human inhabitant. The river is teaming with wildlife. I saw more beavers, otters, raccoons, squirrels, turtles, turkey, deer, ducks, geese, and swans than any other paddling adventure. It certainly helped that it was so early in the season, cold and windy, and Michigan was on lockdown because of coronavirus.
I came across two early season hackings of geese with their protective parents not far away. Baby beavers look liked oversized guinea pigs and newborn raccoons look like juvenile thieves. For some reason I find those mud covered flat shelled turtles particularly interesting to watch.
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On my last day the morning conditions were ideal for viewing wildlife. The wind was directly in front of me so the animals had their faces pointed in the other direction to catch any drifting scent alerting them of potential danger. The sun was directly behind me making it nearly impossible for anything to see me. When there was something I wanted to get close up to I would simply lift my paddle and drift as far as possible. At times I got within 10 to 20 feet of unsuspecting ducks, geese, raccoons and deer.
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Along the way I came across only four other paddlers. As I passed by Saranac there was a father and son duo and a while later there was a father and daughter team. They were making their way down river to Forest Hills. As I passed I thought about how these father-child excursions will make wonderful memories. They may not know it now, but these types of special moments will be forever remembered and cherished.
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The trip was predictably beautiful, scenic and serene, and interrupted by a few disruptions and challenges.
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THE VERY FIRST RIVER BEND NEARLY BREAKS ME.
I launch onto the swift flowing shallow waters of the Red Cedar River. With a slight turn to my left I wave goodby to Sheila and Nancy. I am so thankful for their friendship and support and look forward to seeing them tomorrow when I land on the sandy beaches of Lake Michigan, over 150 miles away. Not much more than 100 yards is North Aurelius Road bridge. On the other side the Red Cedar splinters into several smaller tributaries before they all converge at the other end of Potter Park Zoo. As I pass under the bridge I see a log jam blocking the primary tributary. As I get closer I see there are several more blockages beyond that. I look to my left. From what I can see, this small tributary which takes me around the outside is less blocked and should be easier to circumnavigate. Although it also has a log jam blocking the beginning, it looks like the better option. I decide to go this way. |
Kruger's Landing
North Aurelius Road Bridge
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After portaging the short distance around the first log jam I prepare to reenter from a small inlet. The reentry poses a slight challenge as there is a fallen tree that extends well into the river. Toward the end of the tree it rises above the river for about 6-8 feet. Its end was cut off to allow recreational boaters like me to make it around.
The challenge is I will have to paddle upstream against the swift flowing shallow river, before I make a quick turn to make it way around this fallen tree. If I don’t succeed, I risk being pushed against this fallen tree and possible swept underneath it. I assess the risks and determine while the odds are stacked agains me, I’m all jacked up and feeling lucky. I think, “Certainly, nothing will go wrong so early in my adventure.” I push off from shore and almost immediately know I’m not going to make it. As expected I get pushed sideways against the tree. Able to maintain balance and remain upright, I work my way backward to shore. I survey the shoreline downriver and see a less risky entry not to far away. But, I just don’t feel like taking the additional time and trouble of getting out of my kayak, walking through the mud, reentering and trying again. So instead, I jockey my kayak a few yards further upstream before attempting my second effort. My plan this time is to start out as strong as possible, paddle diagonally upstream to make it well beyond the end of the cut off tree, then quickly bank left to make my way around. |
I push off and immediately know I am not going to make it this time either. This time I am certain to hit the tree where it extends above the water. I expect I will hit it nearly straight on, then the back end of my kayak will swing around where I will flip over into the cold Red Cedar River.
As I head toward the fallen tree at a much higher speed now, I quickly put my paddle to my right and reach up with my left arm to grab onto this tree’s thick trunk. Even at that moment I know this isn’t going work, but it’s an instinctive reaction. I slam into the tree hard. It doesn’t take but a fraction of a second for the river to flip me under in a violent motion. My left arm gets pushed up and behind me shoulder while my kayak is forcefully ripped away from underneath me. Thrown out and backward, I look up through the goldish water and attempt to gain my footing. The water is cold. I stand and when my head first breaks the water’s surface I gasp for air, then leap forward to grab my kayak while knowing instantaneously I have lost my hat and new sunglasses. I pull my kayak to shore, then get out of the water to regain my composure. I look around to make sure no one saw what just happened. No one has. Phew. After collecting my thoughts and taking inventory, I sponge out the river water from inside my kayak. Although I am wet and cold, I decide to change only my long sleeve shirt, lightweight jacket, and put on a pair of lightweight neoprene gloves to act as a liner. Thankfully, my neoprene wetsuit and boots have kept me body mostly dry. |
I heed the warning. My plans for a swift pace have now changed to my making this trip a scenic adventure and to enjoy my return to West Michigan. It’s not all bad. Luckily I have packed to support three days of paddling.
After reaching where the Red Cedar and Grand River converge I decide to cut off the forefinger of my right neoprene glove. This will allow me more quickly take pictures along the way. With a firm grasp of the glove in my left hand and an effort greater than I thought would be needed, I cut up and through the glove. Unfortunately, I do not stop in time and slice the underside of my right thumb. While it’s bleeding, it doesn’t require me to stop to bandage or make a visit to the local hospital for stitches.
Within about 20 minutes of my planned 151 mile paddle, I will learn that I have slightly hyperextended my left shoulder and left leg, scraped the underside of my left leg, and cut the underside and right thumb. Hardly a brilliant start for a seasoned long distance paddler.
All I can do is shake my head in disbelief, laugh at myself and continue on.
After reaching where the Red Cedar and Grand River converge I decide to cut off the forefinger of my right neoprene glove. This will allow me more quickly take pictures along the way. With a firm grasp of the glove in my left hand and an effort greater than I thought would be needed, I cut up and through the glove. Unfortunately, I do not stop in time and slice the underside of my right thumb. While it’s bleeding, it doesn’t require me to stop to bandage or make a visit to the local hospital for stitches.
Within about 20 minutes of my planned 151 mile paddle, I will learn that I have slightly hyperextended my left shoulder and left leg, scraped the underside of my left leg, and cut the underside and right thumb. Hardly a brilliant start for a seasoned long distance paddler.
All I can do is shake my head in disbelief, laugh at myself and continue on.
A CHILLING PAUSE AT THE PORTLAND DAM.
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It was at the Portland Dam, 45.5 miles into the trip, where I cross paths with a friendly old gentleman. He takes interest in what I am doing and wants to know all about me, my kayak and plans.
Normally, I would welcome the opportunity and make the time to visit. But, it's 8PM and I am pushing it hard to make my way to the Webber Dam before dark and it’s seven more miles down river. Also, when I stop moving my sweat soaked shirt and river drenched wool socks creates a chill that begins to overtake my body during the cool evening hours. |
Portland Dam
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This kind inquisitive gentleman gets excited when he discovers I am paddling through to Lake Michigan, over 100 miles away. This led him to telling me all about a local legend, Verlin Kruger, who paddled 100,000 miles all over the world. He is surprised I haven’t heard of him, then tells me there is even bronze statue of him in the same city, Portland. Who knew, did you?
It’s not long before I know I am not going to make it to Webber before dark. So I take the time to visit and listen, all the while I feel my body temperature dropping as we speak. When he is done sharing his stories he wishes me well, the best of luck, and tells me to be safe.
I was hoping he was going to help me portage my kayak to the other side of the dam. He doesn’t. That’s O.K. as this would have been against race rules anyway.
It’s not long before I know I am not going to make it to Webber before dark. So I take the time to visit and listen, all the while I feel my body temperature dropping as we speak. When he is done sharing his stories he wishes me well, the best of luck, and tells me to be safe.
I was hoping he was going to help me portage my kayak to the other side of the dam. He doesn’t. That’s O.K. as this would have been against race rules anyway.
AN UNSETTLING END TO DAY ONE.
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I arrive at Webber dam much later than planned and under the cover of night.
I struggle to find the marked narrow passage on the right side of river which will guide me safely to shore. It’s unnerving and I begin to worry that I may not be able to find it at all. After a while I discover the two standing buoy markers much closer to shore than expected. I carefully make my way through and land on the pebbled riverbank. I am relieved the first day is over. I am cold, wet, tired and stiff, and look forward to getting a good night’s rest. |
Webber Dam
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I scout the area and determine that the grassy spot along the steep hillside is where I will set camp. Without the cover of a tent I will use the hill and my 17’ 8”NC Kayak to protect me from the chilling wind. So tired, I struggle to pull my kayak up the small hill and find it difficult blow up my air mattress. The temperate is below 30º and because of my sweat soaked clothes and relative inactivity of setting up camp a deep chill begins to set in.
For some reason I am unable to bend my left leg much at all. It makes it difficult to change into warm dry clothes. It’s as if I have injured it, but I can’t think how or when. After removing my neoprene boots and pealing off my river soaked wool socks, I can feel a thick moist substance on the backside of my left leg. I dismiss it as being remnants of my spill at the beginning of the race.
After towel drying, taking four ibuprofens, my sleeping pill and brushing my teeth, I slip into my down filled sleeping bag with extra liner. It doesn’t take long before I fall asleep.
I wake up remarkably rested and comfortable, and excited to journey on.
For some reason I am unable to bend my left leg much at all. It makes it difficult to change into warm dry clothes. It’s as if I have injured it, but I can’t think how or when. After removing my neoprene boots and pealing off my river soaked wool socks, I can feel a thick moist substance on the backside of my left leg. I dismiss it as being remnants of my spill at the beginning of the race.
After towel drying, taking four ibuprofens, my sleeping pill and brushing my teeth, I slip into my down filled sleeping bag with extra liner. It doesn’t take long before I fall asleep.
I wake up remarkably rested and comfortable, and excited to journey on.
LAKE ADVISORIES AND GALE STRENGTH WINDS WAIT FOR ME IN GRAND HAVEN.
It is the third and last day. I have been warned of the small craft advisories at Grand Haven where I finish. They’re calling for winds up to 25 knots (29 mph) and waves building to 3 to 6 feet around 3PM, then significantly worsening around 6PM. I will need to be off the water by 3PM before getting caught up in these dangerous weather conditions.
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As I work off the sleep in the morning I am greeting by a friendly park ranger. He drives up in his dark green pickup truck and asks, “How are you doing?” He tells me that they got a call that someone was sleeping in the park.
That would be me and with my kayak next to me. He can tell I am not an unwelcomed drifter. I unzip my mummy style sleeping bag, peek out and tell him, “I’m fine and I’ll be heading out in about 15 minutes.” He smiles, waves good by and says, “Be safe.” I launch from Johnson Park in Grand Rapids at around 8AM and bout 35 miles from the finish. With reasonable luck I will finish the race within the allotted 57 hours, but much longer than I had originally planned. I need to hurry as the forecasted gale like winds are expected to hit Grand Haven around 3PM. It is around 11AM when I enter the Bass River Recreation Area when the wind begins to notably strengthen. This was not unexpected, simply unwanted. I hug the left riverbank for relief from the strong winds and building waves. The wind is persistent and two hours later just before the Highway 231 bridge I slide into last boat slip for a lengthy pause. I take my time to rest, eat and catch up on correspondence. |
Johnson Park | Grand Rapids
Highway 231
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A while later I enter the low water area having names like Sterns Bayou, Millhouse Bayou, and Dermo Bayou. It is here wind strengthens and begins to challenge my reserves. Luckily, I get a welcomed reprieve when I make my turn north along a stretch which parallels Indian Channel.
But, when I make my last turn northwest toward the finish near Highway 31 I get caught by the promised strong southwest winds. The waves are slapping against my left side and crashing over my kayak now. There is nothing I can do other than push through and shift my attention on the views of the hillside homes, the large gathering of trumpeter swans, and distant business and industry. Being the only one on the water, I think a misplaced paddle here would be disastrous.
I pass by Grand Isle Marina where the wind has slightly settled. The few men working look over to their right, look at me and must be thinking,”What is he doing?“ Me too.
But, when I make my last turn northwest toward the finish near Highway 31 I get caught by the promised strong southwest winds. The waves are slapping against my left side and crashing over my kayak now. There is nothing I can do other than push through and shift my attention on the views of the hillside homes, the large gathering of trumpeter swans, and distant business and industry. Being the only one on the water, I think a misplaced paddle here would be disastrous.
I pass by Grand Isle Marina where the wind has slightly settled. The few men working look over to their right, look at me and must be thinking,”What is he doing?“ Me too.
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As I pass under Highway 31 bridge and make my final run to Lake Michigan, I am hopeful the wind holds out just a while longer.
Knowing I am arriving much later than I originally thought and promised others, I take an incoming call to explain where I am. I can’t speak long as I need to continue paddling to maintain momentum and my balance. I explain the towering stack is on my left and I will be making my way through the channel shortly. I quickly hang up, then dig deep as the wind has returned and is even stronger. The narrow passage with its cements wall on both sides creates greater chop and does not allow for a river exit if I were to spill. There is no reason to worry as it simply does no good. I dig deep and with each stroke I power my way through the strong head winds which are certainly pushing 30 mph now. When I make my last turn around JB Sims Generating Station I see the familiar Grand Haven Municipal Park with its retail shops and boat slips. I spot Pamela, a long time family friend and former neighbor. She is bigger than life and enthusiastically waves me in. |
Highway 31
Verplank Trucking & Aggregate | Ferrysburg
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Over the last couple hundred yards the wind subsides to let me off with relative ease. I throw Pamela a rope and she pulls me suddenly toward the dock. I hit it hard, then I explain that all she needs to do is hold onto the rope as I climb out onto the dock about a foot above me.
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A GRAND ADVENTURE COMPLETED.
I finish the 151 mile Campus to Coast race within allotted time. It took me 54.1 hours, well over my expected time. But, because the race was cancelled and I was the only one paddling over the designated weekend, I unofficially claim first place for my division and overall. Congratulations me! IT WAS A WONDERFUL TRIP. The Campus to Coast race ranks among my most favorite paddling adventures, certainly among my top five. My solo paddles across Lake Michigan and Superior, and the Seventy48 race from Tacoma to Townsend are certainly my top three. This Campus to Coast adventure ranks so highly not just because of the over 151 miles of scenic views, abundant wildlife, and personal best distance paddled. It does because along the way I met up with best friends, former classmates, teammates, and former neighbors. |
Finish at Grand Haven Municipal Park
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A PHOTO JOURNEY IN CHRONOLOGICAL ORDER | 3 DAYS AND 2 NIGHTS
From Kruger Landing to Grand Haven
From Kruger Landing to Grand Haven
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A SPECIAL THANKS
I must recognize those who supported me on this Michigan adventure: Sheila Hughes, Nancy Enell Hughes, Jack and Cathi Hoyle, Craig Van Dyke, and Pamela Caspari. Without you, this grand adventure would neither been possible or nearly as spectacular. Mike |
Nancy, Mike & Sheila
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Jack & Mike
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