LAKE MICHIGAN 2023
A Record Shattering Seventh Crossing
I dedicate this crossing to my 9-year-old granddaughter, Lola.
When I last spoke with my nine-year-old granddaughter she asked me how many times I had crossed Lake Superior. She was thinking I had done it six times. I had to correct her as I have only solo paddled across Lake Superior once, it was Lake Michigan that I had crossed six times. Just knowing that she thinks about this, and boasts to her friends about what her grandfather does for a hobby, made me proud.
Lola did not know at the time that I had been thinking about crossing Lake Michigan again. Before we finished talking, because of her interest, I committed to what would be a record shattering seventh Lake Michigan crossing. Before we said good bye, I told her of my plans and that I am dedicating this next grand adventure to her. |
When speaking with my youngest daughter Elizabeth the next day, she shared with me how excited Lola was when I told her that I was dedicating my next Lake Michigan crossing to her. There was no going back now. I did not tell Elizabeth that I had been closely watching the weather forecasts and that a window of opportunity was forming for acceptable lake conditions as soon as two days.
That same evening I look at the weather reports in Two Rivers, Wisconsin and Ludington, MI. For the first time all the hourly wind forecasts for Saturday are equal or less than 8 mph. It’s A Go! |
When he lands we begin to chat. He pridefully shows off his prized catch. His salmon is so large it exceeds the capacity of his large freezer bag. He laughs, “Looks like I need to get a bigger bag.” I wonder, “How did he keep from tipping over when pulling in such a large trophy.
After exchanging stories and hearing his assessment of today’s lake conditions and his understanding of the weather forecast, I am all the more encouraged of today’s grand adventure. With his approval, best wishes, and push from off the beach, I officially launch at 6:20 AM. With the wave of my right hand I give thanks to my new friend, and trophy fisherman, Dan Hoefert.
After breaking through where the waves first crash onto the shallows of Lake Michigan (see photo right about 50 feet ahead of me), I shake off a large wave that crashes into my chest and hope there are no more. ________________________ I am now in the open waters and at the start of my grand adventure. As my mind remains in the logistics mode, I think of all those things that I did, wished I did, and regret not doing. It all doesn’t matter, as what I have is all that I got and whatever Lake Michigan throws me, I will have to accept and adjust.
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I set my mind and kayak pointed in the direction of ESE 104º where Big Sable Lighthouse awaits.
During the first hour I will try to focus and master the rhythm of the lake. It often takes about forty-five minutes for where we learn to dance together and where we achieve a steady, predictable, and smooth rhythm. I have no pretense that I am the lead in this dance. It is my plan to stop to rehydrate every hour. Every two hours I will rehydrate and snack. Every four hours I rehydrate and have a meal. I will not break from this routine as anything less will prove punishing to my strength, energy, and mental clarity. |
I find my rhythm quickly. My early morning pace is quicker than expected and am feeling good about my speed. I am benefiting from a moderate wind and its favorable direction, although I am finding it a bit challenging to maintain on course at ESE 104º. The lake appears determined, more so than in the past, to push me north and well off course.
At 7:20AM, one hour into today’s paddle, I pause for a drink and to take my first GPS reading. Before I pull my phone out, I remind myself that this is only a single point of measure and to not overreact, favorably or unfavorably. With the push of my thumb I wake up my phone. After punching in my six digit security code I click on my Google Map app. I am immediately taken aback by how far off course I am, but am encouraged by how much distance I have covered. I remind myself, don’t overreact with your first reading. |
The second hour goes much like the first. I have found a rhythm, my strokes are fast, smooth, and near effortless. I am making great speed and focus on relaxing my grip on my paddle to conserve energy and avoid blistering. As during the first hour, I am challenged to maintain a ESE 104º direction, but remain determined to keep my kayak pointed on course.
I look over my left shoulder, then my right, and notice I can no longer see any sign of Wisconsin. This tells me I am making great time. After snacking on a granola bar and having a drink of my electrolyte charged water, this is the moment of truth. It is time for my second GPS reading where I begin to pattern my course. |
With the push of my thumb, entering of my passcode, and clicking on the Google maps app, I discover that I am well off course. Far greater than I imagined and further than ever before.
This is not good. The lake is deceivingly much stronger than I thought. If I maintain this direction I will find myself landing somewhere near Frankfurt, about 40 miles north of Big Sable Lighthouse. Hell, I may be headed to Charlevoix if I’m not careful. To make a course correction I change my reading to ESE 120º. I avoid recalculating in my mind my new ETA as it is still early and it will only frustrate. |
These waves are so large that during my scheduled hourly breaks I must turn my kayak directly into them to avoid a certain spill. It is when reaching to return my bottle of water under the elastic straps atop my kayak, I am at greatest risk of a spill. With neither hand on my paddle, I must use pressure from my hips, knees, and feet to maintain balance.
After about the sixth hour the lake lets up and returns to its more predictable pattern expected of winds of less than 8 mph. It’s a welcomed relief. But, after over the past four hours, despite pointing my kayak ESE 120. I have only been able to maintain a direction of due east. I have expelled a lot of energy and my distance covered has reduced. |
At near 1:30PM, seven hours into my journey, I make my way to the imaginary Wisconsin/Michigan border in the center of Lake Michigan. It is here where I break to hydrate and have a hearty snack. I then turn my kayak in a southwest direction toward Los Angeles. As loud as I can, I shout out, “Lola! I love you! We got this!”
I repeat this several times as I want to make sure Lola hears me. With Los Angeles being 1,800 miles away, I worry she may not have heard me. With the wind and waves more cooperative, and having changed my compass reading direction to no less than ESE 120º. I begin to track southeast in an attempt to get on course. |
As planned, around the ninth hour I turn my thoughts above to family and close friends that have passed. It is for this reason, for so many years, that I have returned to this Great Lake. It is a closeness that I haven’t found anywhere else. It is here where I give thanks and prayer, and talk to my parents, brother, and grandparents. Then there is my close friend and personal mentor Pamela Caspari, and my life-long best friend Jack Hoyle, who both passed way too early and just a couple weeks apart from each other.
It is when I speak to God, just He and I, I thank him for my good health, opportunity, and for blessing me with an incredible life. I look forward to my next chapter for all that I will discover and accomplish, and for which He only knows. |
Because I have dedicated this trip to Lola, I look up and ask the He, and all the others, watch over her. I pray that Lola will always know how much she is loved, how much support she has around her, and that by her presence and smile alone, she lifts everyone’s spirit. May she forever know how proud I am to be her grandfather.
I wish I could stay in this area of the lake, to reflect, think, and simply enjoy all the company. It is a special place and truly a remarkable experience. But, I have much further to go and the work ahead will only get harder. It is time for me to push forward |
The sun is about to disappear below the horizon, yet I have only caught a glimpse of a rapidly blinking light in the direction of where Big Sable should be standing. The speed of its bursts is not typical, but I convince myself to dismiss these anomalies and accept that this is Big Sable. I choose this to be my land marker and paddle toward it.
I am so far off my planned time I try not to get discouraged. While I am not yet tired or having to fend of fatigue, my right hand is revealing the formation of blisters. To give relief I shift pressure points and let my fingers dance, then paddle on. |
LAKE MICHIGAN RECORDS AND INSIGHTS
While there is no central source keeping records of Lake Michigan solo paddle crossings, I believe I hold several: Lake Michigan Records
The Four Parts of a Great Lakes Paddle Part 1: Fresh, excited, optimistic. Part 2: The realization of the strength and endurance needed sets it. Part 3: The strain of the journey hits you. You wonder, “What am I thinking?” Part 4: With the end in sight, spirits are lifted. Thoughts after Finishing The moment of: So tired, you swear never again. Days later: You think of the excitement and accomplishment, and the possibility of another.
For insights on how to prepare for your Great Lakes crossing, click here. |
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