LAKE MICHIGAN 2021
My fourth time crossing.
NEAR PERFECT LAKE CONDITIONS • STUNNING VIEWS • RECORD SETTING JOURNEY
CROSSING LAKE MICHIGAN | IT'S A JUNE REPEAT
- A Record Shattering Journey.
- A Record Shattering Journey.
Rawley Point Lighthouse
Having been watching the weather closely, the storms have finally blown through and trailing behind is a period of calm. The unseasonably warm conditions are near perfect for another June crossing. The only worry I have is the moderate chance for showers while I'm out on the lake and in the evening when I finish.
Weighing all the factors, the conditions are too good to pass up. It’s a go! I’ll be making my second Lake Michigan crossing this month and third over the past year. These lake crossings are at a pace I never imagined and never attempted before.
To prepare for this trip, there were two lessons learned from my prior crossing.
1) I must work on lower back flexibility. I was in excruciating pain. It was so bad over the past few hours, I was screaming in pain.
2) Bring the compass. This rookie mistake required me to largely navigate via the sun and distant clouds.
To overcome the above, I spend nearly every evening at the gym cross-training with an emphasis on lower back exercise and treatment. For the other, I pack my compass.
I arrive at Wisconsin’s Point State Park Beach Monday evening to check out the lake’s mood and get my mind wrapped around the challenge ahead. The waves are a little choppy. But that’s okay as the forecast is for diminishing winds throughout the night.
In the morning all I’ll have to do is safely paddle through the waves crashing over the shallow area near shore. I check out the lake’s movement and mentally chart a path to the flat waters just beyond. If all goes well, I’ll avoid an uncomfortable cold splash over the front of my 17’ 2” open sea kayak, or worse, an embarrassing spill.
Before I head back to town for final supplies, I take in the view of the 111 foot tall Rawley Point Lighthouse. It is Wisconsin’s largest. Its purpose is to provide safe passage for mariners gives me comfort and reassurance. Fifty miles away is Big Sable Lighthouse, my final destination. At 112 feet it is Michigan’s tallest.
Weighing all the factors, the conditions are too good to pass up. It’s a go! I’ll be making my second Lake Michigan crossing this month and third over the past year. These lake crossings are at a pace I never imagined and never attempted before.
To prepare for this trip, there were two lessons learned from my prior crossing.
1) I must work on lower back flexibility. I was in excruciating pain. It was so bad over the past few hours, I was screaming in pain.
2) Bring the compass. This rookie mistake required me to largely navigate via the sun and distant clouds.
To overcome the above, I spend nearly every evening at the gym cross-training with an emphasis on lower back exercise and treatment. For the other, I pack my compass.
I arrive at Wisconsin’s Point State Park Beach Monday evening to check out the lake’s mood and get my mind wrapped around the challenge ahead. The waves are a little choppy. But that’s okay as the forecast is for diminishing winds throughout the night.
In the morning all I’ll have to do is safely paddle through the waves crashing over the shallow area near shore. I check out the lake’s movement and mentally chart a path to the flat waters just beyond. If all goes well, I’ll avoid an uncomfortable cold splash over the front of my 17’ 2” open sea kayak, or worse, an embarrassing spill.
Before I head back to town for final supplies, I take in the view of the 111 foot tall Rawley Point Lighthouse. It is Wisconsin’s largest. Its purpose is to provide safe passage for mariners gives me comfort and reassurance. Fifty miles away is Big Sable Lighthouse, my final destination. At 112 feet it is Michigan’s tallest.
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A RESTLESS NIGHT MAKES FOR AN EARLY START
To save time and effort, I have learned it is best for me to simply pull down the back seats of my car and sleep on an inflatable mattress. Coordinating activities with the park in advance, I am allowed a lakefront view with a cooling breeze coming off the lake. “It’s not all that bad and with my down-filled sleeping bag, liner, and a My Pillow Travel Pillow, it is surprisingly comfortable,” I tell myself. With every Great Lakes crossing I can barely sleep the two nights before. I understand the risks and they weigh on me heavily. I strategize my plan and think about how I will respond to those things that may challenge me. I have learned from experience, I will have to respond to something unexpected. I wonder, “What will it be this time?” |
5 AM looking north.
5 AM looking south.
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At about 4:45 AM I wake up. The first thought that comes to mind is “Thank you for allowing me to inspire others.” Apparently I had awakened in mid-dream and was praying. I take it as a good omen and am comforted.
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I shift my weight to get more comfortable in hopes of another forty-five minutes sleep. But, my mind is racing about what I am about to do. I notice the cast of bright colors coming from the rising Lake Michigan sun. I sense it is going to be a beautiful day and decide to get up and launch early.
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My hotel for the night too!
I HAVE THIS PART OF THE PARK ALL TO MYSELF
After struggling to free myself from my mummy style sleeping bag I peek over my seats to see if anyone is around. There is no one. I can get up and get dressed at my leisure and stay focused on the task at hand.
I walk to the beach and take in the view of my favorite Great Lake and the beautiful rising red sun. The cool fresh breeze from the lake hitting my face feels great. With the sun trying to break through the thick clouds, the colors are more brilliant than what I thought. I walk down the beach then up a narrow path leading through a small dune to check out Rawley Point Lighthouse. This iconic landmark is particularly stunning this morning. Just seeing her reassures me of what lies ahead.
Over the next hour, I have breakfast, stage my kayak and gear, then change into my thick two-piece neoprene wetsuit and booties to prepare for an unlikely spill in Lake Michigan’s cold water. Everything is going surprisingly smoothly and I am soon ready to go.
After struggling to free myself from my mummy style sleeping bag I peek over my seats to see if anyone is around. There is no one. I can get up and get dressed at my leisure and stay focused on the task at hand.
I walk to the beach and take in the view of my favorite Great Lake and the beautiful rising red sun. The cool fresh breeze from the lake hitting my face feels great. With the sun trying to break through the thick clouds, the colors are more brilliant than what I thought. I walk down the beach then up a narrow path leading through a small dune to check out Rawley Point Lighthouse. This iconic landmark is particularly stunning this morning. Just seeing her reassures me of what lies ahead.
Over the next hour, I have breakfast, stage my kayak and gear, then change into my thick two-piece neoprene wetsuit and booties to prepare for an unlikely spill in Lake Michigan’s cold water. Everything is going surprisingly smoothly and I am soon ready to go.
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IT'S A LAUNCH
With my kayak partially in the water and pointed due east, it’s simply a matter of my getting in and pushing off. I look over the lake one final time and check out the conditions. I look behind to see what the trailing winds look like. Everything is going as planned, and the weather now is as forecasted. I sense it is going to be a good day. The conditions are great and I am feeling confident. I’m feeling remarkably calm and comfortable. But, I don’t want to be too optimistic and jinx my trip. |
About to launch while the conditions are near perfect.
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Early morning on-lake views are incredible.
I look down and instinctively take a reading off my compass. I can’t help but laugh as I remember on my last trip I forgot my compass and had to navigate using largely the sun and distant clouds. I push off and work my way through the shallow water. Without a wave breaking over the front of my kayak or experiencing an embarrassing spill, I quickly make my way to the open calm water.
With the wind in the low single digits, I am greeted by the low rolling waves of an inviting sea. The brilliant colors of the sun struggling to break through the thick clouds compliments an already stunning view. I literally let out a sigh of disbelief, pause, and look around. I feel blessed to experience what only a few others have. And I have done this twice in the past two and a half weeks alone.
With the wind in the low single digits, I am greeted by the low rolling waves of an inviting sea. The brilliant colors of the sun struggling to break through the thick clouds compliments an already stunning view. I literally let out a sigh of disbelief, pause, and look around. I feel blessed to experience what only a few others have. And I have done this twice in the past two and a half weeks alone.
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Vertical Divider
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PERSONAL REFLECTIONS
In the back of my mind, I can’t help but think about my father and older brother and how they passed away too early to enjoy the fruit of their life’s hard work. My father was diagnosed with terminal cancer at age 60, and my brother at 55. They both felt cheated; how could they not? When I met with my brother just a couple of days before he passed, he shared with me how angry he was. In the back of my mind, I told myself, “I will never let that happen to me.” The Stout family has a long history of its men dying too early. With my turning another year soon, I will become the longest living healthy Stout as far as I know. That by itself is truly remarkable, especially if it were known how many times I have cheated death. Perhaps that is why I am chasing grand adventures that few others have, and determined to set records that even fewer would consider. |
As I pass them several miles out, I wonder what they think.
THE LAKE IS CROWDED
It isn’t but a half hour and two miles from shore when I pass a couple of fishing boats. I wonder what they must be thinking as I make my way past them sitting in my bright red, sleek and narrow kayak, just inches above the water, and continue on in an uncommon direction.
NEARLY PERFECT LAKE CONDITIONS
The weather forecast is nearly dead-on. In the morning, the lake is calm with winds in the low single digits. As expected, the winds steadily increase to where they push just over 10 mph, creating small whitecaps. I look in the distance and above for any sign of stronger winds.
It isn’t but a half hour and two miles from shore when I pass a couple of fishing boats. I wonder what they must be thinking as I make my way past them sitting in my bright red, sleek and narrow kayak, just inches above the water, and continue on in an uncommon direction.
NEARLY PERFECT LAKE CONDITIONS
The weather forecast is nearly dead-on. In the morning, the lake is calm with winds in the low single digits. As expected, the winds steadily increase to where they push just over 10 mph, creating small whitecaps. I look in the distance and above for any sign of stronger winds.
I stay on track the entire way.
The steady SSW wind requires me to change course and turn directly SE to avoid being easily flipped over. Unknowingly, the steady strength of the opposing wind pushes me north and keeps me largely on track. After the wind breaks, at about 11 AM, all I must do is make a slight adjustment to get back on course.
It is a pleasant surprise and another good omen.
With there being the threat of rain, the overcast sky protects me from the hot summer sun. With the temperature in the low 70s, it makes for a much more pleasant trip than two weeks ago.
It is a pleasant surprise and another good omen.
With there being the threat of rain, the overcast sky protects me from the hot summer sun. With the temperature in the low 70s, it makes for a much more pleasant trip than two weeks ago.
- THE LAKE VIEWS ARE STUNNING -
The reflections of the clouds on the lake provide a spectacular display of varied colors. Also, being able to choose a distinct shape in the clouds allows me to set course and focus on the incredible views all around.
Click on the images below to view them in full size.
I THOUGHTFULLY SCHEDULE MY WATER AND FOOD INTAKE
To avoid the onset of heat exhaustion, every hour I generously hydrate with my electrolyte charged flavored water. Every two hours, I have a hearty snack to avoid depleting my energy reserves. About every four hours, I consume a small meal consisting of a PBJ sandwich, protein bar, and apple. I do this without fail.
To avoid the onset of heat exhaustion, every hour I generously hydrate with my electrolyte charged flavored water. Every two hours, I have a hearty snack to avoid depleting my energy reserves. About every four hours, I consume a small meal consisting of a PBJ sandwich, protein bar, and apple. I do this without fail.
THE END IS IN SIGHT
Along the way I pass a couple of freighters heading south, possibly to Gary, Indiana or Chicago, Illinois.
Along the way I pass a couple of freighters heading south, possibly to Gary, Indiana or Chicago, Illinois.
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The first is quite far off and I am unsure of its course. As it gets closer I pause to study its path. When I realize it is passing well behind me I continue on with confidence. The subtle rolls from its trailing wakes give me a gentle and helpful push toward shore. The other freighter just pulled out from Manistee. It is much closer to shore and well ahead and never poses a threat.
With the first sight of Ludington's black and white striped Big Sable Lighthouse, I give out several shouts of joy. Why not? No one can hear me. I look at my time and estimate how much further I must paddle. I am now certain I am going to set a NEW personal best time for speed. With my spirits lifted, my speed picks up. I am thinking, "What will my final time be?” My prior best time is 15.5 hours, made my first year of paddling when I crossed Lake Michigan in 2016. I am feeling good and am hopeful to record a time under 15 hours. With the near perfect conditions, I dig down deep and sprint the remaining distance. About an hour later I can see Michigan’s shoreline from just north of Big Sable to Ludington’s lighthouse at the end of the channel. During my mandatory 1-hour break I look at my watch. I am now thinking I may finish closer to 14 hours. I can't believe it! |
Sharing the lake with our freighters is awesome and scary.
Big Sable Lighthouse is always a welcoming sight.
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WITH THE HELP OF MY DAD
I dig down deeper, giving it all that I have. I begin shouting out loud to my dad above, "Come on dad, give me a push. We got this!" I continue lookING at my watch, and in the back of my mind I am thinking, "I may finish under 13 hours. This is nuts and can’t be right!”
There is no letting up as I am sure I won't have the chance to meet this pace again. I am approaching a half dozen fishing boats just in front and north of Big Sable. I am cruising at a good pace and as I pass them coming from the center of the lake, I can't help but wonder what they must be thinking. The 13-hour mark passes and I feel a little disappointed. With the end so near, I decide to skip my last mandatory 1-hour break and push through.
I dig down deeper, giving it all that I have. I begin shouting out loud to my dad above, "Come on dad, give me a push. We got this!" I continue lookING at my watch, and in the back of my mind I am thinking, "I may finish under 13 hours. This is nuts and can’t be right!”
There is no letting up as I am sure I won't have the chance to meet this pace again. I am approaching a half dozen fishing boats just in front and north of Big Sable. I am cruising at a good pace and as I pass them coming from the center of the lake, I can't help but wonder what they must be thinking. The 13-hour mark passes and I feel a little disappointed. With the end so near, I decide to skip my last mandatory 1-hour break and push through.
I set up camp for the night where I land on Lake Michigan's shore.
IT IS OFFICIAL
With a record time of 13.5 hours in mind, I shout out a yell of joy when I finish in front of Big Sable at 13.25 hours. I am feeling proud. I look up to my dad and say, "Way to go dad. We did it!" I struggle to fight back the tears and try ignoring the discomfort in my left shoulder caused by the tear in my rotator cuff.
After struggling to pour myself out of my 17' 2" open sea kayak, I finish so early I have time to walk around and enjoy the view of the beach, Big Sable, and take in another stunning Lake Michigan sunset.
I just can’t get over my time. I shattered my personal best by 2.25 hours!
With a record time of 13.5 hours in mind, I shout out a yell of joy when I finish in front of Big Sable at 13.25 hours. I am feeling proud. I look up to my dad and say, "Way to go dad. We did it!" I struggle to fight back the tears and try ignoring the discomfort in my left shoulder caused by the tear in my rotator cuff.
After struggling to pour myself out of my 17' 2" open sea kayak, I finish so early I have time to walk around and enjoy the view of the beach, Big Sable, and take in another stunning Lake Michigan sunset.
I just can’t get over my time. I shattered my personal best by 2.25 hours!
LASTING IMPRESSIONS
I see a young couple taking photos of each other in front of Big Sable. I ask if they would like me to take a picture of the both of them. I forget I am not wearing typical beach attire. They look at me in my solid black neoprene wetsuit and booties and hesitantly agree. Afterward, they ask me where I just came from. I then realize, they didn’t see me paddling up in my kayak.
They're the first I tell of my record fourth Lake Michigan crossing and personal best speed. They're surprised, excited for me, and tell me congratulations!
I see a young couple taking photos of each other in front of Big Sable. I ask if they would like me to take a picture of the both of them. I forget I am not wearing typical beach attire. They look at me in my solid black neoprene wetsuit and booties and hesitantly agree. Afterward, they ask me where I just came from. I then realize, they didn’t see me paddling up in my kayak.
They're the first I tell of my record fourth Lake Michigan crossing and personal best speed. They're surprised, excited for me, and tell me congratulations!
SETTLING IN FOR THE NIGHT
My plan for the evening is to camp on the beach and under the stars. With the threat of rain and just south the sky is a solid dark gray, I am weary of my being unprotected. At about 11 PM I feel the first few drops of rain. I hurry to the small covered porch on the south side of Big Sable. With my inflatable air mattress, down sleeping bag and liner, and travel pillow, I settle in for another restless night.
At about 5:30 AM, I wake up and decide it's best to pack up and make my way to my final destination, Ludington State Park Beach.
My plan for the evening is to camp on the beach and under the stars. With the threat of rain and just south the sky is a solid dark gray, I am weary of my being unprotected. At about 11 PM I feel the first few drops of rain. I hurry to the small covered porch on the south side of Big Sable. With my inflatable air mattress, down sleeping bag and liner, and travel pillow, I settle in for another restless night.
At about 5:30 AM, I wake up and decide it's best to pack up and make my way to my final destination, Ludington State Park Beach.
- VIEWS FROM LUDINGTON STATE PARK BEACH -
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Nestled among jack pines, Ludington's iconic black and white striped Big Sable Lighthouse stands tall at 112 feet. It remains active for navigational use and is so tall it can be seen by mariners as far as 19 miles out.
On this Monday evening, the setting sun and cloudy sky creates an incredible pallete of colors. The water is so pure, you can see the bottom of the lake quite a ways out. While I took a 50-mile route to the park from across the lake, it is accessible from land via a 1.8 mile walk. |
Click on the images below to view them in full size.
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Lake Hamlin under the cover of fog.
A FINAL LAP | HAMLIN LAKE
I arrive so early at Ludington State Park Beach, well before my ride arrives, I decide to paddle the little stream on the south side of the park. I have always wondered what it leads it and have since learned it's Hamlin Lake.
The water here is so pure here I can see the bottom and the many fish passing through. Before I approach the bridge, I hear the discernible snorting of a spooked deer. I look to my left, but the deer has already disappeared.
After I pass underneath the low bridge, a thick fog reveals a beautiful and scenic lake. The scene is more typical of a New England mid-autumn and makes for a wonderful surprise. The fog is so thick I turn on my portable LED strobe to make sure others can see me. I soon learn, being so early in the morning, I have the lake all to myself. With barely a breeze there isn't a ripple on the water. Other than the sound of my paddle breaking the lake's surface, the area is totally silent.
I arrive so early at Ludington State Park Beach, well before my ride arrives, I decide to paddle the little stream on the south side of the park. I have always wondered what it leads it and have since learned it's Hamlin Lake.
The water here is so pure here I can see the bottom and the many fish passing through. Before I approach the bridge, I hear the discernible snorting of a spooked deer. I look to my left, but the deer has already disappeared.
After I pass underneath the low bridge, a thick fog reveals a beautiful and scenic lake. The scene is more typical of a New England mid-autumn and makes for a wonderful surprise. The fog is so thick I turn on my portable LED strobe to make sure others can see me. I soon learn, being so early in the morning, I have the lake all to myself. With barely a breeze there isn't a ripple on the water. Other than the sound of my paddle breaking the lake's surface, the area is totally silent.
The end of a record setting journey.
At a slow pace I continue on and marvel at the lake's beauty. On the lake's east side I spot several deer at water's edge. Without worry they simply watch me glide by. Around each slight bend is another beautiful fog covered view. I hear the sound of rapids ahead. A little while later I recognize the sound as water beneath a dam. As I approach this small lake dam I decide to turn back as I am too tired to portage around.
After pulling up my kayak up to the State Park Beach parking lot and staging my gear, I walk into an impressively large and spacious park building and am greeted by a few kind park rangers. A little later, the first thunderstorm pounds the area, it seems as if there is a small river pouring off the roof. The volume of water is much greater than what I expected and I wonder, "What would I have done if I got caught up in these sudden strong winds and heavy rain while on the lake?"
THANK YOU
It is my plan to paddle across Lake Michigan once more this summer. I will then become the first to complete an in-season three-peat, and shatter all prior Lake Michigan crossings with a record total of five.
After pulling up my kayak up to the State Park Beach parking lot and staging my gear, I walk into an impressively large and spacious park building and am greeted by a few kind park rangers. A little later, the first thunderstorm pounds the area, it seems as if there is a small river pouring off the roof. The volume of water is much greater than what I expected and I wonder, "What would I have done if I got caught up in these sudden strong winds and heavy rain while on the lake?"
THANK YOU
It is my plan to paddle across Lake Michigan once more this summer. I will then become the first to complete an in-season three-peat, and shatter all prior Lake Michigan crossings with a record total of five.
- Photos From Hamlin Lake and the Next Morning's Return Trip on the SS Badger -
Click on the images below to view them in full size.
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Thank you for joining me on yet another grand adventure. I hope my stories and photography inspires adventure in you.
To read more stories and view photography highlighting my six years of paddling, click here.
